Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
